/* ==========================================================================
   Иркутск.ру — public design system
   Palette: deep Baikal blue · warm ivory · charcoal · larch amber
   Type: Cormorant Garamond (display) + Golos Text (text/UI), both self-hosted
   ========================================================================== */

/* ---------- fonts ----------
   Display face uses font-display: optional (it is preloaded): no late swap, so long titles never shift the layout. */
@font-face { font-family: "Cormorant Garamond"; font-style: normal; font-weight: 500; font-display: optional;
  src: url(/assets/fonts/cormorant-garamond-cyrillic-500-normal.woff2) format("woff2"); unicode-range: U+0301, U+0400-045F, U+0490-0491, U+04B0-04B1, U+2116; }
@font-face { font-family: "Cormorant Garamond"; font-style: normal; font-weight: 500; font-display: optional;
  src: url(/assets/fonts/cormorant-garamond-latin-500-normal.woff2) format("woff2"); unicode-range: U+0000-00FF, U+0131, U+0152-0153, U+02BB-02BC, U+02C6, U+02DA, U+02DC, U+2000-206F, U+2074, U+20AC, U+2122, U+2191, U+2193, U+2212, U+2215, U+FEFF, U+FFFD; }
@font-face { font-family: "Cormorant Garamond"; font-style: normal; font-weight: 600; font-display: optional;
  src: url(/assets/fonts/cormorant-garamond-cyrillic-600-normal.woff2) format("woff2"); unicode-range: U+0301, U+0400-045F, U+0490-0491, U+04B0-04B1, U+2116; }
@font-face { font-family: "Cormorant Garamond"; font-style: normal; font-weight: 600; font-display: optional;
  src: url(/assets/fonts/cormorant-garamond-latin-600-normal.woff2) format("woff2"); unicode-range: U+0000-00FF, U+0131, U+0152-0153, U+02BB-02BC, U+02C6, U+02DA, U+02DC, U+2000-206F, U+2074, U+20AC, U+2122, U+2191, U+2193, U+2212, U+2215, U+FEFF, U+FFFD; }
@font-face { font-family: "Cormorant Garamond"; font-style: italic; font-weight: 500; font-display: swap;
  src: url(/assets/fonts/cormorant-garamond-cyrillic-500-italic.woff2) format("woff2"); unicode-range: U+0301, U+0400-045F, U+0490-0491, U+04B0-04B1, U+2116; }
@font-face { font-family: "Cormorant Garamond"; font-style: italic; font-weight: 500; font-display: swap;
  src: url(/assets/fonts/cormorant-garamond-latin-500-italic.woff2) format("woff2"); unicode-range: U+0000-00FF, U+0131, U+0152-0153, U+02BB-02BC, U+02C6, U+02DA, U+02DC, U+2000-206F, U+2074, U+20AC, U+2122, U+2191, U+2193, U+2212, U+2215, U+FEFF, U+FFFD; }
@font-face { font-family: "Golos Text"; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400 900; font-display: swap;
  src: url(/assets/fonts/golos-text-cyrillic-wght-normal.woff2) format("woff2-variations"); unicode-range: U+0301, U+0400-045F, U+0490-0491, U+04B0-04B1, U+2116; }
@font-face { font-family: "Golos Text"; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400 900; font-display: swap;
  src: url(/assets/fonts/golos-text-latin-wght-normal.woff2) format("woff2-variations"); unicode-range: U+0000-00FF, U+0131, U+0152-0153, U+02BB-02BC, U+02C6, U+02DA, U+02DC, U+2000-206F, U+2074, U+20AC, U+2122, U+2191, U+2193, U+2212, U+2215, U+FEFF, U+FFFD; }

/* ---------- tokens ---------- */
:root {
  --ink: #17191c;
  --ink-2: #33383e;
  --muted: #5d636b;          /* 6.1:1 on ivory */
  --ivory: #f5f0e6;
  --paper: #fbf8f2;
  --sand: #e9e0cf;
  --line: rgba(23, 25, 28, .14);
  --line-strong: rgba(23, 25, 28, .32);
  --baikal: #0b2f42;
  --baikal-2: #12465f;
  --baikal-3: #2c6d8a;
  --ice: #cfe2e8;
  --larch: #8a5820;          /* 5.3:1 on ivory (WCAG AA) */
  --larch-light: #d9a35c;
  --lichen: #5b6849;
  --danger: #a3342a;
  --success: #2f6a45;

  --font-display: "Cormorant Garamond", "Cormorant", Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;
  --font-text: "Golos Text", "Segoe UI", system-ui, -apple-system, Roboto, "Helvetica Neue", Arial, sans-serif;

  --step--1: clamp(.82rem, .8rem + .1vw, .88rem);
  --step-0: clamp(1rem, .96rem + .2vw, 1.0625rem);
  --step-1: clamp(1.2rem, 1.1rem + .45vw, 1.45rem);
  --step-2: clamp(1.5rem, 1.3rem + 1vw, 2.1rem);
  --step-3: clamp(1.95rem, 1.55rem + 2vw, 3.1rem);
  --step-4: clamp(2.5rem, 1.8rem + 3.6vw, 4.6rem);
  --step-5: clamp(3rem, 1.9rem + 5.6vw, 6.6rem);

  --gutter: clamp(1rem, .5rem + 2.5vw, 2.5rem);
  --max: 82rem;
  --measure: 40rem;
  --radius: 2px;
  --shadow: 0 1px 2px rgba(11, 47, 66, .06), 0 12px 32px -18px rgba(11, 47, 66, .28);
  --ease: cubic-bezier(.2, .7, .1, 1);
  --header-h: 4.5rem;
}

/* ---------- reset / base ---------- */
*, *::before, *::after { box-sizing: border-box; }
html { -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; text-size-adjust: 100%; scroll-padding-top: calc(var(--header-h) + 1rem); }
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { html { scroll-behavior: smooth; } }
body {
  margin: 0; min-height: 100vh; display: flex; flex-direction: column;
  background: var(--ivory); color: var(--ink);
  font: 400 var(--step-0)/1.62 var(--font-text);
  font-feature-settings: "kern", "liga";
  text-rendering: optimizeLegibility; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased;
}
/* fine film grain over the ivory ground */
body::before {
  content: ""; position: fixed; inset: 0; pointer-events: none; z-index: 1000; opacity: .05;
  background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' width='160' height='160'%3E%3Cfilter id='n'%3E%3CfeTurbulence type='fractalNoise' baseFrequency='.85' numOctaves='3' stitchTiles='stitch'/%3E%3C/filter%3E%3Crect width='100%25' height='100%25' filter='url(%23n)'/%3E%3C/svg%3E");
}
main { flex: 1; display: block; }
main:focus { outline: none; }
img, svg, video { max-width: 100%; height: auto; display: block; }
a { color: var(--baikal-2); text-decoration-thickness: 1px; text-underline-offset: .18em; }
a:hover { color: var(--baikal); text-decoration-thickness: 2px; }
:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--larch); outline-offset: 3px; border-radius: 1px; }
h1, h2, h3, h4 { margin: 0; font-weight: 500; line-height: 1.1; text-wrap: balance; }
p { margin: 0 0 1em; }
p:last-child { margin-bottom: 0; }
ul, ol { padding: 0; margin: 0; }
button, input, select, textarea { font: inherit; color: inherit; }
hr { border: 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); margin: 2.5rem 0; }
::selection { background: var(--ice); color: var(--baikal); }

.visually-hidden { position: absolute !important; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); clip-path: inset(50%); white-space: nowrap; }
.skip-link { position: absolute; left: 1rem; top: -4rem; z-index: 2000; background: var(--ink); color: var(--paper); padding: .75rem 1rem; text-decoration: none; }
.skip-link:focus { top: 1rem; }
[hidden] { display: none !important; }

.container { width: 100%; max-width: var(--max); margin-inline: auto; padding-inline: var(--gutter); }
.container--narrow { max-width: calc(var(--measure) + 2 * var(--gutter) + 6rem); }
.container--split { display: grid; gap: clamp(2rem, 4vw, 5rem); }
@media (min-width: 62rem) { .container--split { grid-template-columns: minmax(16rem, 4fr) 8fr; align-items: start; } }

/* ---------- type helpers ---------- */
.kicker {
  display: flex; align-items: center; gap: .75rem; flex-wrap: wrap;
  margin: 0 0 1rem; font-size: var(--step--1); letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--larch); font-weight: 500;
}
.kicker::before { content: ""; width: 2.25rem; height: 1px; background: currentColor; flex: none; }
.kicker a { color: inherit; text-decoration: none; }
.kicker a:hover { text-decoration: underline; }
.kicker--light { color: #efc88f; text-shadow: 0 1px 12px rgba(0, 0, 0, .35); }
.lede { font-size: var(--step-1); line-height: 1.5; color: var(--ink-2); font-weight: 400; }
.small-print { font-size: var(--step--1); color: var(--muted); }
.section-title { font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: var(--step-3); margin: 3rem 0 1.5rem; }

/* ---------- buttons & links ---------- */
.button {
  display: inline-flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center; gap: .55rem;
  min-height: 2.9rem; padding: .7rem 1.35rem; border: 1px solid transparent; border-radius: var(--radius);
  font-size: .95rem; font-weight: 500; letter-spacing: .02em; text-decoration: none; cursor: pointer;
  transition: background-color .2s var(--ease), color .2s var(--ease), border-color .2s var(--ease);
}
.button .icon { width: 1.15em; height: 1.15em; }
.button--dark { background: var(--baikal); color: var(--paper); }
.button--dark:hover { background: var(--ink); color: var(--paper); }
.button--light { background: var(--paper); color: var(--baikal); }
.button--light:hover { background: #fff; color: var(--ink); }
.button--ghost-light { border-color: rgba(251, 248, 242, .6); color: var(--paper); }
.button--ghost-light:hover { background: rgba(251, 248, 242, .12); color: #fff; border-color: #fff; }
.button--text { background: none; padding-inline: .25rem; color: var(--baikal-2); text-decoration: underline; text-decoration-color: var(--line-strong); }
.button--text:hover { text-decoration-color: currentColor; }
.link-arrow { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: .5rem; font-weight: 500; text-decoration: none; color: var(--baikal-2); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line-strong); padding-bottom: .15rem; }
.link-arrow .icon { width: 1.1rem; height: 1.1rem; transition: transform .25s var(--ease); }
.link-arrow:hover { border-bottom-color: currentColor; }
.link-arrow:hover .icon { transform: translateX(4px); }
.icon { width: 1.1rem; height: 1.1rem; flex: none; }

/* ---------- header ---------- */
.site-header { position: sticky; top: 0; z-index: 900; background: rgba(245, 240, 230, .92); backdrop-filter: saturate(1.2) blur(10px); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.site-header__inner { max-width: var(--max); margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 var(--gutter); height: var(--header-h); display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 2rem; }
.brand { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: .65rem; color: var(--baikal); text-decoration: none; margin-right: auto; }
.brand:hover { color: var(--ink); }
.brand__mark { width: 2.1rem; height: 2.1rem; color: var(--larch); }
.brand__name { font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: 1.7rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: .01em; line-height: 1; }
.primary-nav { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 1.75rem; }
.primary-nav__list { list-style: none; display: flex; gap: clamp(.9rem, 1.6vw, 1.7rem); }
.primary-nav__link { position: relative; color: var(--ink-2); text-decoration: none; font-size: .93rem; padding: .4rem 0; white-space: nowrap; }
.primary-nav__link.is-primary { color: var(--ink); font-weight: 500; }
.primary-nav__link::after { content: ""; position: absolute; left: 0; right: 0; bottom: -2px; height: 1px; background: var(--larch); transform: scaleX(0); transform-origin: left; transition: transform .3s var(--ease); }
.primary-nav__link:hover::after, .primary-nav__link.is-active::after { transform: scaleX(1); }
.primary-nav__link:hover { color: var(--ink); }
.lang-switch { display: inline-flex; align-items: baseline; gap: .3rem; padding: .4rem .75rem; border: 1px solid var(--line-strong); border-radius: 999px; text-decoration: none; font-size: .8rem; letter-spacing: .1em; color: var(--muted); }
.lang-switch__target { color: var(--baikal); font-weight: 600; }
.lang-switch:hover { border-color: var(--baikal); color: var(--baikal); }
.menu-toggle { display: none; align-items: center; gap: .6rem; background: none; border: 0; padding: .5rem; cursor: pointer; font-size: .9rem; letter-spacing: .06em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.menu-toggle__bars, .menu-toggle__bars::before, .menu-toggle__bars::after { display: block; width: 1.4rem; height: 1px; background: currentColor; transition: transform .3s var(--ease), opacity .2s; }
.menu-toggle__bars { position: relative; }
.menu-toggle__bars::before, .menu-toggle__bars::after { content: ""; position: absolute; left: 0; }
.menu-toggle__bars::before { top: -6px; }
.menu-toggle__bars::after { top: 6px; }
.menu-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .menu-toggle__bars { background: transparent; }
.menu-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .menu-toggle__bars::before { transform: translateY(6px) rotate(45deg); }
.menu-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .menu-toggle__bars::after { transform: translateY(-6px) rotate(-45deg); }

@media (max-width: 68rem) {
  /* backdrop-filter would make the header the containing block of the fixed menu panel */
  .site-header { backdrop-filter: none; background: var(--ivory); }
  .menu-toggle { display: inline-flex; text-decoration: none; color: var(--ink); }
  /* Same initial layout with and without JavaScript (no layout shift when site.js loads). */
  .primary-nav {
    position: fixed; inset: var(--header-h) 0 0 0; z-index: 899; flex-direction: column; align-items: stretch; gap: 2rem;
    padding: 2rem var(--gutter) 3rem; background: var(--paper); overflow-y: auto; visibility: hidden; opacity: 0; transform: translateY(-.5rem);
    transition: opacity .25s var(--ease), transform .25s var(--ease), visibility 0s .25s;
  }
  .primary-nav.is-open, .no-js .primary-nav:target { visibility: visible; opacity: 1; transform: none; transition-delay: 0s; }
  .primary-nav__list { flex-direction: column; gap: 0; }
  .primary-nav__link { display: block; font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: var(--step-2); padding: .65rem 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
  .primary-nav__link::after { display: none; }
  .primary-nav__lang { align-self: flex-start; }
  .no-js .primary-nav:target .primary-nav__close { display: inline-block; }
  body.menu-open { overflow: hidden; }
}
.primary-nav__close { display: none; align-self: flex-start; font-size: .9rem; letter-spacing: .06em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.breadcrumbs { max-width: var(--max); margin: 0 auto; padding: 1.25rem var(--gutter) 0; font-size: var(--step--1); color: var(--muted); }
.breadcrumbs ol { list-style: none; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .35rem .6rem; }
.breadcrumbs li + li::before { content: "/"; margin-right: .6rem; color: var(--line-strong); }
.breadcrumbs a { color: var(--muted); text-decoration: none; }
.breadcrumbs a:hover { color: var(--ink); text-decoration: underline; }
.breadcrumbs--light { padding: 0 0 1.5rem; margin: 0; color: rgba(251, 248, 242, .78); }
.breadcrumbs--light a { color: rgba(251, 248, 242, .85); }
.breadcrumbs--light a:hover { color: #fff; }
.breadcrumbs--light li + li::before { color: rgba(251, 248, 242, .45); }
.preview-banner { background: var(--larch); color: #fff; text-align: center; padding: .5rem 1rem; font-size: .9rem; position: sticky; top: 0; z-index: 950; }

/* ---------- pictures & focal points ---------- */
.picture { display: block; position: relative; }
.picture img { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; }
.picture__credit { position: absolute; right: .5rem; bottom: .5rem; max-width: calc(100% - 1rem); background: rgba(23, 25, 28, .62); color: rgba(255, 255, 255, .92); padding: .15rem .45rem; font-size: .7rem; line-height: 1.4; }
.picture__credit a { color: inherit; }
.fp-0-0{object-position:0 0}.fp-0-25{object-position:0 25%}.fp-0-50{object-position:0 50%}.fp-0-75{object-position:0 75%}.fp-0-100{object-position:0 100%}
.fp-25-0{object-position:25% 0}.fp-25-25{object-position:25% 25%}.fp-25-50{object-position:25% 50%}.fp-25-75{object-position:25% 75%}.fp-25-100{object-position:25% 100%}
.fp-50-0{object-position:50% 0}.fp-50-25{object-position:50% 25%}.fp-50-50{object-position:50% 50%}.fp-50-75{object-position:50% 75%}.fp-50-100{object-position:50% 100%}
.fp-75-0{object-position:75% 0}.fp-75-25{object-position:75% 25%}.fp-75-50{object-position:75% 50%}.fp-75-75{object-position:75% 75%}.fp-75-100{object-position:75% 100%}
.fp-100-0{object-position:100% 0}.fp-100-25{object-position:100% 25%}.fp-100-50{object-position:100% 50%}.fp-100-75{object-position:100% 75%}.fp-100-100{object-position:100% 100%}

/* ---------- hero ---------- */
.hero { position: relative; min-height: min(92vh, 60rem); display: grid; grid-template-rows: 1fr auto; color: var(--paper); background: var(--baikal); overflow: hidden; isolation: isolate; }
.hero__media { position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: -2; }
.hero__media .picture { height: 100%; }
.hero__img { height: 100%; }
.hero::after { content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: -1;
  background: linear-gradient(180deg, rgba(8, 25, 36, .25) 0%, rgba(8, 25, 36, 0) 30%, rgba(8, 25, 36, .2) 55%, rgba(8, 25, 36, .82) 100%),
              linear-gradient(90deg, rgba(8, 25, 36, .55) 0%, rgba(8, 25, 36, 0) 60%); }
.hero__route { position: absolute; left: 0; right: 0; bottom: 6%; width: 100%; height: 42%; z-index: -1; pointer-events: none; }
.hero__route-line { fill: none; stroke: rgba(226, 178, 110, .95); stroke-width: 2.25; stroke-dasharray: 1; stroke-dashoffset: 0; vector-effect: non-scaling-stroke; }
.hero__route-dot { fill: var(--paper); stroke: var(--larch-light); stroke-width: 2; vector-effect: non-scaling-stroke; }
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) {
  .hero__route-line { stroke-dashoffset: 1; animation: draw 3.2s .5s var(--ease) forwards; }
  .hero__route-dot { opacity: 0; animation: fade-in .6s var(--ease) forwards; }
  .hero__route-dot--start { animation-delay: 1.3s; }
  .hero__route-dot:not(.hero__route-dot--start):not(.hero__route-dot--end) { animation-delay: 2s; }
  .hero__route-dot--end { animation-delay: 2.6s; }
  .hero__content > * { opacity: 0; transform: translateY(14px); animation: rise .9s var(--ease) forwards; }
  .hero__content > :nth-child(2) { animation-delay: .1s; }
  .hero__content > :nth-child(3) { animation-delay: .2s; }
  .hero__content > :nth-child(4) { animation-delay: .3s; }
}
@keyframes draw { to { stroke-dashoffset: 0; } }
@keyframes fade-in { to { opacity: 1; } }
@keyframes rise { to { opacity: 1; transform: none; } }
.hero__content { align-self: end; width: 100%; max-width: var(--max); margin: 0 auto; padding: 8rem var(--gutter) 2.5rem; }
.hero__title { font-family: var(--font-display); font-weight: 500; font-size: var(--step-5); line-height: .98; letter-spacing: -.01em; max-width: 14ch; margin-bottom: 1.5rem; }
.hero__lead { max-width: 38rem; font-size: var(--step-1); line-height: 1.5; color: rgba(251, 248, 242, .9); }
.hero__actions { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .85rem; margin-top: 2rem; }
.hero__foot { width: 100%; max-width: var(--max); margin: 0 auto; padding: 1.25rem var(--gutter) 1.5rem; display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 2rem; border-top: 1px solid rgba(251, 248, 242, .22); font-size: var(--step--1); }
.hero__coords { margin: 0; letter-spacing: .14em; color: rgba(251, 248, 242, .7); }
.hero__scroll { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: .75rem; color: var(--paper); text-decoration: none; letter-spacing: .08em; text-transform: uppercase; font-size: .75rem; margin-inline: auto; }
.hero__scroll-line { width: 1px; height: 2.2rem; background: linear-gradient(var(--paper), transparent); }
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { .hero__scroll-line { animation: pulse-line 2.4s ease-in-out 3; transform-origin: top; } }
@keyframes pulse-line { 0%, 100% { transform: scaleY(.4); } 50% { transform: scaleY(1); } }
.hero__credit { margin: 0; color: rgba(251, 248, 242, .62); }
.hero__credit a { color: inherit; }
@media (max-width: 40rem) {
  .hero { min-height: 88svh; }
  .hero__foot { flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .5rem 1rem; }
  .hero__coords { display: none; }
  .hero__scroll { margin: 0; }
  .hero__route { height: 30%; bottom: 20%; }
}

/* ---------- sections ---------- */
.section { padding-block: clamp(4rem, 8vw, 8rem); }
.section + .section { border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.section-head { margin-bottom: clamp(2rem, 4vw, 3.5rem); display: grid; gap: .25rem; max-width: 52rem; }
.section-head__title { font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: var(--step-4); line-height: 1.02; letter-spacing: -.005em; }
.section-head__lead { margin-top: 1rem; max-width: 40rem; color: var(--ink-2); font-size: var(--step-1); line-height: 1.5; }
.section-head__link { justify-self: start; margin-top: 1.25rem; }
.section-head--inverse { color: var(--paper); }
.section-head--inverse .section-head__lead { color: rgba(251, 248, 242, .82); }
.page-head { padding-block: clamp(2.5rem, 6vw, 5rem) clamp(1.5rem, 3vw, 2.5rem); }
.page-head__title { font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: var(--step-5); line-height: 1; letter-spacing: -.01em; }
.page-head__lead { margin-top: 1.25rem; max-width: 42rem; font-size: var(--step-1); line-height: 1.5; color: var(--ink-2); }

/* ---------- tour meta & cards ---------- */
.tour-meta { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .4rem 1.1rem; margin: .9rem 0 1.1rem; font-size: .88rem; color: var(--ink-2); }
.tour-meta div { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: .4rem; }
.tour-meta dt { display: flex; color: var(--larch); }
.tour-meta dd { margin: 0; }
.tour-card { display: flex; flex-direction: column; height: 100%; background: var(--paper); border: 1px solid var(--line); transition: border-color .3s var(--ease), box-shadow .3s var(--ease); }
.tour-card:hover { border-color: var(--line-strong); box-shadow: var(--shadow); }
.tour-card__media { position: relative; display: block; aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; overflow: hidden; background: var(--sand); }
.tour-card__media .picture { height: 100%; }
.tour-card__img { transition: transform 1.2s var(--ease); }
.tour-card:hover .tour-card__img { transform: scale(1.035); }
.tour-card__kind { position: absolute; left: 0; top: 1rem; padding: .3rem .75rem .3rem 1rem; background: var(--paper); color: var(--ink); font-size: .72rem; letter-spacing: .12em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.tour-card--regional .tour-card__kind { background: var(--baikal); color: var(--paper); }
.tour-card__body { display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex: 1; padding: 1.35rem 1.4rem 1.5rem; }
.tour-card__title { font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: var(--step-2); line-height: 1.08; }
.tour-card__title a { color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; background-image: linear-gradient(currentColor, currentColor); background-size: 0 1px; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-position: 0 100%; transition: background-size .4s var(--ease); }
.tour-card__title a:hover { background-size: 100% 1px; }
.tour-card__subtitle { margin: .5rem 0 0; color: var(--muted); font-size: .95rem; }
.tour-card__intro { margin: 1rem 0 0; color: var(--ink-2); }
.tour-card .link-arrow { margin-top: auto; align-self: flex-start; }
.tour-card--large .tour-card__media { aspect-ratio: 16 / 10; }
.tour-card--large .tour-card__title { font-size: var(--step-3); }
.tour-card--compact .tour-card__title { font-size: var(--step-1); }
@media (min-width: 64rem) {
  .tour-card--large { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 7fr 5fr; }
  .tour-card--large .tour-card__media { aspect-ratio: auto; min-height: 30rem; }
  .tour-card--large .tour-card__body { padding: 2.25rem 2rem; justify-content: flex-end; }
}

.featured-grid { display: grid; gap: clamp(1rem, 2vw, 1.75rem); }
@media (min-width: 40rem) { .featured-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); } .featured-grid__item--1 { grid-column: 1 / -1; } }
@media (min-width: 64rem) {
  .featured-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(12, 1fr); }
  .featured-grid__item { grid-column: span 4; }
  .featured-grid__item--1 { grid-column: 1 / -1; }
  /* Staggered rhythm with positive offsets only: a negative margin pulls a card into the row above
     and overlaps it, because grid rows are sized without it. */
  .featured-grid__item--3 { margin-top: 4rem; }
  .featured-grid__item--5 { grid-column: 2 / span 5; }
  .featured-grid__item--6 { grid-column: 7 / span 5; margin-top: 3rem; }
}
/* The 5/4/3 split needs room: below 80rem a 3-column card is too narrow for its meta and link. */
@media (min-width: 80rem) {
  .featured-grid__item--2 { grid-column: 1 / span 5; }
  .featured-grid__item--3 { grid-column: 6 / span 4; }
  .featured-grid__item--4 { grid-column: 10 / span 3; }
}

/* ---------- themes index ---------- */
.theme-index { list-style: none; border-top: 1px solid var(--line-strong); }
.theme-index__link { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 3rem 1fr auto 1.5rem; align-items: baseline; gap: .25rem 1.25rem; padding: 1.4rem 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); text-decoration: none; color: var(--ink); transition: padding .35s var(--ease), background-color .35s var(--ease); }
.theme-index__num { font-size: .8rem; letter-spacing: .1em; color: var(--larch); }
.theme-index__name { font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: var(--step-2); line-height: 1.1; }
.theme-index__desc { grid-column: 2 / 3; color: var(--muted); font-size: .92rem; }
.theme-index__count { grid-row: 1; grid-column: 3; font-size: .85rem; color: var(--muted); white-space: nowrap; }
.theme-index__link .icon { grid-row: 1; grid-column: 4; color: var(--baikal-2); transition: transform .3s var(--ease); }
.theme-index__link:hover { padding-inline: .75rem; background: var(--paper); color: var(--baikal); }
.theme-index__link:hover .icon { transform: translateX(4px); }

/* ---------- destinations mosaic ---------- */
.mosaic { display: grid; gap: .75rem; grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); }
.mosaic__item { position: relative; display: block; overflow: hidden; aspect-ratio: 3 / 4; color: var(--paper); text-decoration: none; background: var(--baikal); }
.mosaic__item .picture { position: absolute; inset: 0; }
.mosaic__img { transition: transform 1.4s var(--ease), opacity .4s; }
.mosaic__item:hover .mosaic__img { transform: scale(1.04); }
.mosaic__item::after { content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; background: linear-gradient(180deg, rgba(8, 25, 36, 0) 45%, rgba(8, 25, 36, .82)); }
.mosaic__caption { position: absolute; left: 0; right: 0; bottom: 0; z-index: 1; padding: 1.25rem; display: grid; gap: .25rem; }
.mosaic__name { font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: var(--step-2); line-height: 1.05; }
.mosaic__meta { font-size: .8rem; letter-spacing: .08em; text-transform: uppercase; color: rgba(251, 248, 242, .8); }
.mosaic__tagline { max-width: 26rem; color: rgba(251, 248, 242, .9); font-size: .95rem; margin-top: .4rem; }
.mosaic__item--1 { grid-column: 1 / -1; aspect-ratio: 16 / 10; }
@media (min-width: 64rem) {
  .mosaic { grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr); grid-auto-rows: 15rem; }
  .mosaic__item { aspect-ratio: auto; }
  .mosaic__item--1 { grid-column: 1 / span 2; grid-row: span 2; }
  .mosaic__item--2 { grid-row: span 2; }
  .mosaic__item--5, .mosaic__item--6 { grid-column: span 2; }
  .mosaic__item--1 .mosaic__name { font-size: var(--step-4); }
}

/* ---------- map section ---------- */
.section--map { background: var(--baikal); color: var(--paper); position: relative; overflow: hidden; }
.section--map + .section { border-top: 0; }
.section--map::before { content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; opacity: .14; pointer-events: none;
  background: repeating-radial-gradient(circle at 78% 40%, transparent 0 34px, rgba(207, 226, 232, .5) 35px 36px); }
.container--map { display: grid; gap: 2.5rem; position: relative; }
@media (min-width: 64rem) { .container--map { grid-template-columns: 4fr 8fr; align-items: center; } }
.map-legend { list-style: none; display: grid; gap: .6rem; font-size: .92rem; color: rgba(251, 248, 242, .88); }
.map-legend li { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: .7rem; }
.map-legend__dot { width: .9rem; height: .9rem; border-radius: 50%; border: 2px solid var(--paper); }
.map-legend__dot--city { background: var(--larch-light); }
.map-legend__dot--regional { background: var(--baikal-3); }
.map-legend__dot--dest { background: var(--paper); border-color: var(--ink); border-radius: 2px; transform: rotate(45deg); width: .75rem; height: .75rem; }
.region-map { position: relative; min-height: 28rem; height: clamp(28rem, 60vh, 38rem); background: #0e3a50; border: 1px solid rgba(251, 248, 242, .2); }
.region-map--wide { height: clamp(24rem, 55vh, 34rem); }
.region-map__list { list-style: none; columns: 2 14rem; gap: 2rem; padding: 1.5rem; font-size: .9rem; }
.region-map__list a { color: var(--paper); }
.region-map.is-ready .region-map__list { display: none; }
.map-fallback { padding: 1.5rem; }

/* ---------- stories ---------- */
.stories { display: grid; gap: 2.5rem; }
@media (min-width: 64rem) { .stories { grid-template-columns: 7fr 5fr; gap: 4rem; } }
.stories__list { display: grid; gap: 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--line-strong); }
.article-card { position: relative; }
.article-card__media { display: block; overflow: hidden; aspect-ratio: 3 / 2; background: var(--sand); margin-bottom: 1.1rem; }
.article-card__media .picture { height: 100%; }
.article-card__img { transition: transform 1.2s var(--ease); }
.article-card:hover .article-card__img { transform: scale(1.03); }
.article-card__kicker { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .5rem; margin: 0 0 .5rem; font-size: .78rem; letter-spacing: .1em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--larch); }
.article-card__kicker a { color: inherit; text-decoration: none; }
.article-card__kicker span:last-child { color: var(--muted); }
.article-card__title { font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: var(--step-2); line-height: 1.1; }
.article-card__title a { color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; }
.article-card__title a:hover { color: var(--baikal-2); text-decoration: underline; text-decoration-thickness: 1px; }
.article-card__excerpt { margin: .7rem 0 0; color: var(--ink-2); }
.article-card__date { margin: .75rem 0 0; font-size: .82rem; color: var(--muted); }
.article-card--lead .article-card__media { aspect-ratio: 16 / 11; }
.article-card--lead .article-card__title { font-size: var(--step-4); line-height: 1.02; }
.article-card--lead .article-card__excerpt { font-size: var(--step-1); line-height: 1.5; }
.article-card--row { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 7rem 1fr; gap: 1.25rem; padding: 1.4rem 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.article-card--row .article-card__media { margin: 0; aspect-ratio: 1; }
.article-card--row .article-card__title { font-size: var(--step-1); }
.article-card--row .article-card__excerpt { display: none; }
@media (min-width: 40rem) { .article-card--row { grid-template-columns: 10rem 1fr; } .article-card--row .article-card__excerpt { display: block; font-size: .92rem; } }

/* ---------- tips & seasons ---------- */
.section--tips { background: var(--paper); }
.tips { list-style: none; display: grid; gap: 0 3rem; counter-reset: tip; }
@media (min-width: 48rem) { .tips { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); } }
.tips__item { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 3rem 1fr; grid-template-rows: auto 1fr; align-content: start; gap: .2rem 1rem; padding: 1.5rem 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.tips__num { grid-row: span 2; font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: var(--step-2); line-height: 1; color: var(--larch); }
.tips__title { font-family: var(--font-text); font-size: 1.05rem; font-weight: 600; line-height: 1.35; }
.tips__body { margin: .35rem 0 0; color: var(--ink-2); font-size: .97rem; }
.seasons { display: grid; gap: 1px; background: var(--line); border: 1px solid var(--line); }
@media (min-width: 40rem) { .seasons { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); } }
@media (min-width: 72rem) { .seasons { grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr); } }
.season { background: var(--ivory); padding: 2rem 1.6rem 2.25rem; display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: .75rem; }
.season__name { margin: 0; font-family: var(--font-display); font-style: italic; font-size: var(--step-3); line-height: 1; color: var(--baikal-2); }
.season--winter .season__name { color: #2a5a73; }
.season--spring .season__name { color: var(--lichen); }
.season--summer .season__name { color: var(--baikal-3); }
.season--autumn .season__name { color: var(--larch); }
.season__title { font-family: var(--font-text); font-size: 1.02rem; font-weight: 600; line-height: 1.35; }
.season__body { color: var(--ink-2); font-size: .95rem; }
.season__link { margin-top: auto; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: .4rem; font-size: .88rem; text-decoration: none; }
.season__link:hover { text-decoration: underline; }

/* ---------- catalogue ---------- */
.kind-switch { list-style: none; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .5rem; margin-top: 2rem; }
.kind-switch__link { display: inline-block; padding: .55rem 1.1rem; border: 1px solid var(--line-strong); border-radius: 999px; color: var(--ink-2); text-decoration: none; font-size: .92rem; }
.kind-switch__link:hover { border-color: var(--baikal); color: var(--baikal); }
.kind-switch__link.is-active { background: var(--baikal); border-color: var(--baikal); color: var(--paper); }
.catalog { padding-bottom: 6rem; }
.filters { border-block: 1px solid var(--line-strong); padding: 1.25rem 0; margin-bottom: 1.5rem; display: grid; gap: 1rem; }
.filters__search { display: flex; gap: .5rem; max-width: 40rem; }
.filters__search input { flex: 1; min-width: 0; }
.filters__summary { cursor: pointer; font-weight: 500; list-style: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: .5rem; }
.filters__summary::-webkit-details-marker { display: none; }
.filters__summary::after { content: "+"; font-size: 1.2rem; line-height: 1; color: var(--larch); }
.filters__panel[open] .filters__summary::after { content: "−"; }
.filters__grid { display: grid; gap: 1rem; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(11.5rem, 1fr)); margin-top: 1rem; }
.filters__actions { display: flex; gap: 1rem; align-items: center; margin-top: 1rem; }
.js .filters__actions .button--dark { display: none; }
.catalog__count { color: var(--muted); font-size: .9rem; margin-bottom: 1.25rem; }
.catalog__grid, .archive__grid, .card-row { display: grid; gap: clamp(1rem, 2vw, 1.75rem); grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(min(100%, 19rem), 1fr)); }
.archive__grid { gap: 3rem 2rem; }
.empty-state { padding: 4rem 0; text-align: center; display: grid; justify-items: center; gap: 1.25rem; color: var(--ink-2); }

/* ---------- forms ---------- */
.field { display: grid; gap: .35rem; }
.field label { font-size: .82rem; letter-spacing: .04em; color: var(--ink-2); font-weight: 500; }
input[type="text"], input[type="email"], input[type="search"], input[type="url"], input[type="number"], input[type="date"], input[type="password"], select, textarea {
  width: 100%; min-height: 2.9rem; padding: .6rem .8rem; background: var(--paper); border: 1px solid var(--line-strong); border-radius: var(--radius); color: var(--ink);
}
textarea { min-height: 8rem; resize: vertical; line-height: 1.5; }
select { appearance: none; padding-right: 2.2rem;
  background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' width='12' height='8'%3E%3Cpath d='M1 1l5 5 5-5' fill='none' stroke='%2333383e' stroke-width='1.4'/%3E%3C/svg%3E");
  background-repeat: no-repeat; background-position: right .8rem center; }
input:focus-visible, select:focus-visible, textarea:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--larch); outline-offset: 0; border-color: var(--larch); }
[aria-invalid="true"] { border-color: var(--danger) !important; }
.field__error { color: var(--danger); font-size: .85rem; margin: 0; }
.form { display: grid; gap: 1.25rem; max-width: 40rem; }
.field__help { color: var(--ink-2); font-size: .82rem; margin: 0; }
.captcha__row { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; gap: .75rem; }
.captcha__img { display: block; width: 220px; max-width: 100%; height: auto; aspect-ratio: 22 / 7; border: 1px solid var(--line-strong); border-radius: var(--radius); background: #f6f1e7; }
.captcha__input { max-width: 12rem; font-size: 1.15rem; letter-spacing: .2em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.form__hp { position: absolute; left: -10000px; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow: hidden; }
.notice { display: flex; gap: .85rem; align-items: flex-start; padding: 1rem 1.2rem; border-left: 3px solid var(--baikal-3); background: var(--paper); margin: 1.5rem 0; font-size: .97rem; }
.notice .icon { margin-top: .2rem; color: var(--baikal-3); }
.notice--important { border-color: var(--larch); }
.notice--important .icon { color: var(--larch); }
.notice--verify { border-color: var(--lichen); }
.notice--success { border-color: var(--success); }
.notice--error { border-color: var(--danger); color: var(--danger); }
.contact { padding-block: 2rem 6rem; }
.contact__email { font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: var(--step-2); margin-top: 1.5rem; }

/* ---------- tour page ---------- */
.tour-hero { position: relative; min-height: clamp(26rem, 72vh, 44rem); display: flex; flex-direction: column; justify-content: flex-end; color: var(--paper); background: var(--baikal); isolation: isolate; }
.tour-hero__media { position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: -2; }
.tour-hero__media .picture { height: 100%; }
.tour-hero::after { content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: -1; background: linear-gradient(180deg, rgba(8, 25, 36, .35), rgba(8, 25, 36, .12) 25%, rgba(8, 25, 36, .6) 50%, rgba(8, 25, 36, .9)); }
.tour-hero__content { padding-block: 6rem 2.5rem; }
@media (max-width: 40rem) {
  .tour-hero::after { background: linear-gradient(180deg, rgba(8, 25, 36, .55), rgba(8, 25, 36, .62) 45%, rgba(8, 25, 36, .9)); }
  .tour-hero__content { padding-top: 4.5rem; }
}
.tour-hero__content .kicker a { color: inherit; }
.tour-hero__title { font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: var(--step-5); line-height: .98; max-width: 18ch; letter-spacing: -.01em; }
.tour-hero__subtitle { margin: 1.1rem 0 0; max-width: 40rem; font-size: var(--step-1); color: rgba(251, 248, 242, .9); }
.tour-hero__credit { margin: 0; padding-bottom: 1rem; font-size: .72rem; color: rgba(251, 248, 242, .62); }
.tour-hero__credit a { color: inherit; }

.facts { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(10.5rem, 1fr)); margin: 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line-strong); background: var(--paper); transform: translateY(-1px); }
.facts__item { padding: 1.2rem 1.25rem; border-right: 1px solid var(--line); border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.facts__item--wide { grid-column: span 2; }
@media (max-width: 30rem) { .facts__item--wide { grid-column: 1 / -1; } }
.facts dt { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: .45rem; font-size: .74rem; letter-spacing: .12em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--muted); margin-bottom: .4rem; }
.facts dt .icon { color: var(--larch); }
.facts dd { margin: 0; font-size: 1.02rem; font-weight: 500; line-height: 1.35; }
.facts dd small { display: block; font-size: .75rem; font-weight: 400; color: var(--muted); margin-top: .15rem; }
.tour-actions { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .5rem 1rem; align-items: center; justify-content: flex-end; padding: .75rem 0; min-height: 4.4rem; font-size: .9rem; }
.tour-actions__status, [data-share-status] { color: var(--success); font-size: .88rem; }
.tour-intro { max-width: var(--measure); margin: 2rem auto 0; padding-bottom: 3rem; }
.tour-intro .lede::first-letter { font-family: var(--font-display); float: left; font-size: 3.9em; line-height: .82; padding: .08em .12em 0 0; color: var(--baikal); }

.itinerary { background: var(--paper); border-block: 1px solid var(--line); padding-block: clamp(2.5rem, 5vw, 4.5rem); }
.itinerary__layout { display: grid; gap: 2.5rem; }
@media (min-width: 64rem) {
  .itinerary__layout { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 6fr) minmax(0, 6fr); align-items: start; gap: 3.5rem; }
  .itinerary__map-col { position: sticky; top: calc(var(--header-h) + 1.25rem); order: 2; }
}
.itinerary__title { font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: var(--step-3); margin-bottom: 2rem; }
.route-map { position: relative; }
.route-map__canvas { height: clamp(22rem, 62vh, 40rem); background: #dfe7e6; border: 1px solid var(--line-strong); display: none; }
.route-map.is-ready .route-map__canvas { display: block; }
.route-map.is-ready .route-map__fallback { display: none; }
.route-map__fallback { border: 1px solid var(--line-strong); background: var(--ivory); }
.route-map__fallback-note { padding: .75rem 1rem; margin: 0; font-size: .88rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.route-map__controls { position: absolute; z-index: 500; top: .75rem; right: .75rem; display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: .4rem; }
.map-button { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: .45rem; padding: .5rem .75rem; background: var(--paper); border: 1px solid var(--line-strong); border-radius: var(--radius); font-size: .82rem; font-weight: 500; cursor: pointer; color: var(--ink); box-shadow: var(--shadow); }
.map-button:hover { background: #fff; color: var(--baikal); }
.map-button .icon { width: 1rem; height: 1rem; }
.route-map__note { display: flex; gap: .6rem; align-items: flex-start; margin: .75rem 0 0; font-size: .82rem; color: var(--muted); }
.route-map__note .icon { margin-top: .15rem; }

.route-sketch { width: 100%; height: auto; display: block; }
.route-sketch__bg { fill: var(--ivory); }
.route-sketch__line { fill: none; stroke: var(--baikal-2); stroke-width: 2.5; stroke-linejoin: round; stroke-linecap: round; }
.route-sketch__line.is-schematic { stroke-dasharray: .012 .008; }
.route-sketch__stop circle { fill: var(--baikal); stroke: var(--paper); stroke-width: 2; }
.route-sketch__stop text { fill: var(--paper); font: 600 11px var(--font-text); }

.stops { list-style: none; counter-reset: stop; }
.stop { position: relative; display: grid; grid-template-columns: 2.75rem 1fr; gap: 1.1rem; padding-bottom: 2.5rem; scroll-margin-top: calc(var(--header-h) + 1rem); }
.stop::before { content: ""; position: absolute; left: calc(1.375rem - .5px); top: 2.9rem; bottom: .2rem; width: 1px; background: repeating-linear-gradient(var(--line-strong) 0 4px, transparent 4px 9px); }
.stop:last-child::before { display: none; }
.stop__marker span { display: grid; place-items: center; width: 2.75rem; height: 2.75rem; border-radius: 50%; border: 1px solid var(--baikal); color: var(--baikal); font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: 1.35rem; font-weight: 600; background: var(--paper); transition: background-color .3s, color .3s, transform .3s var(--ease); }
.stop.is-active .stop__marker span { background: var(--baikal); color: var(--paper); transform: scale(1.08); }
.stop__label { margin: .25rem 0 .2rem; font-size: .76rem; letter-spacing: .12em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--larch); }
.stop__name { font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: var(--step-2); line-height: 1.1; margin-bottom: .9rem; }
.stop__getting { display: flex; gap: .55rem; align-items: flex-start; font-size: .92rem; color: var(--ink-2); background: var(--ivory); padding: .7rem .9rem; margin-bottom: 1rem; }
.stop__getting .icon { margin-top: .2rem; color: var(--larch); }
.stop__figure { margin: 0 0 1rem; }
.stop__figure .picture { aspect-ratio: 3 / 2; overflow: hidden; }
.stop__figure figcaption { font-size: .82rem; color: var(--muted); margin-top: .4rem; }
.stop__aside { border-left: 2px solid var(--larch); padding: .2rem 0 .2rem 1rem; margin: 1rem 0; }
.stop__aside h4 { font-size: .76rem; letter-spacing: .12em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--larch); margin-bottom: .3rem; font-weight: 600; }
.stop__aside p { margin: 0; font-size: .95rem; color: var(--ink-2); }
.stop__aside--tip { border-color: var(--baikal-3); }
.stop__aside--tip h4 { color: var(--baikal-3); }
.stop__hours { display: flex; gap: .55rem; font-size: .88rem; color: var(--ink-2); }
.stop__hours .icon { margin-top: .2rem; color: var(--muted); }
.stop__links { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .5rem 1.25rem; align-items: center; margin-top: 1rem; font-size: .84rem; color: var(--muted); }
.stop__links a { color: var(--baikal-2); }
.stop__locate, .stop__official { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: .35rem; background: none; border: 0; padding: 0; cursor: pointer; color: var(--baikal-2); font-weight: 500; text-decoration: none; font-size: .84rem; }
.stop__locate:hover, .stop__official:hover { text-decoration: underline; }
.stop__approx { font-style: italic; }

.practical { padding-top: 1rem; }
.practical__grid { display: grid; gap: 1px; background: var(--line); border: 1px solid var(--line); grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(min(100%, 22rem), 1fr)); }
.practical__item { background: var(--ivory); padding: 1.6rem 1.5rem; }
.practical__item h3 { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: .55rem; font-family: var(--font-text); font-size: .82rem; letter-spacing: .12em; text-transform: uppercase; font-weight: 600; color: var(--baikal-2); margin-bottom: .9rem; }
.practical__item h3 .icon { color: var(--larch); }
.practical__item--safety { background: #f3ece0; }
.verify-box { margin: 2.5rem 0; padding: 1.5rem 1.6rem; border: 1px solid var(--line-strong); background: var(--paper); font-size: .95rem; }
.verify-box__date { font-weight: 600; color: var(--lichen); }
.verify-box__title { font-family: var(--font-text); font-size: .82rem; letter-spacing: .12em; text-transform: uppercase; margin: 1.5rem 0 .75rem; font-weight: 600; }
.link-list { list-style: none; display: grid; gap: .55rem; }
.link-list__kind { color: var(--muted); font-size: .82rem; }
.gallery { margin: 3rem 0; }
.gallery__grid { display: grid; gap: .75rem; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(min(100%, 18rem), 1fr)); }
.gallery__item { margin: 0; }
.gallery__item .picture { aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; overflow: hidden; }
.gallery__item figcaption { font-size: .82rem; color: var(--muted); margin-top: .4rem; }
.tag-row { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; gap: .5rem; margin: 1.5rem 0; font-size: .88rem; color: var(--muted); }
.tag { display: inline-block; padding: .3rem .75rem; border: 1px solid var(--line-strong); border-radius: 999px; color: var(--ink-2); text-decoration: none; font-size: .85rem; }
.tag:hover { border-color: var(--baikal); color: var(--baikal); }
.section--related { background: var(--paper); border-top: 1px solid var(--line); padding-block: 3rem 5rem; }
.section--related .section-title:first-child { margin-top: 0; }

/* ---------- prose ---------- */
.prose { line-height: 1.7; }
.prose > * { margin-top: 0; margin-bottom: 0; }
.prose > * + * { margin-top: 1.05em; }
.prose h2 { font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: var(--step-3); margin-top: 2.2em; line-height: 1.1; scroll-margin-top: calc(var(--header-h) + 1rem); }
.prose h3 { font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: var(--step-2); margin-top: 1.8em; }
.prose h4 { font-size: 1rem; font-weight: 600; margin-top: 1.6em; }
.prose ul, .prose ol { padding-left: 1.3em; }
.prose li + li { margin-top: .4em; }
.prose li::marker { color: var(--larch); }
.prose blockquote { margin: 2em 0; padding: 0 0 0 1.5rem; border-left: 2px solid var(--larch); font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: var(--step-2); line-height: 1.3; font-style: italic; color: var(--baikal); }
.prose blockquote p { margin: 0; }
.prose blockquote cite { display: block; margin-top: .75rem; font-family: var(--font-text); font-size: .85rem; font-style: normal; color: var(--muted); }
.prose figure { margin: 2em 0; }
.prose figure.wide { margin-inline: calc(-1 * min(8vw, 8rem)); }
.prose figcaption { font-size: .84rem; color: var(--muted); margin-top: .5rem; }
.prose figcaption .credit { font-size: inherit; }
.prose figcaption a { color: inherit; }
.prose img { width: 100%; }
.prose aside, .prose .note, .prose .warning, .prose .verify { padding: 1rem 1.2rem; background: var(--paper); border-left: 3px solid var(--baikal-3); font-size: .95rem; }
.prose .warning { border-color: var(--danger); }
.prose .verify { border-color: var(--lichen); }
.prose table { width: 100%; border-collapse: collapse; font-size: .92rem; }
.prose th, .prose td { text-align: left; padding: .6rem .5rem; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); vertical-align: top; }
.prose th { font-weight: 600; color: var(--ink-2); }
.prose--article { font-size: 1.08rem; }

/* ---------- article ---------- */
.article-head { padding-block: 1.5rem 2.5rem; }
.article-head .breadcrumbs { padding: 0 0 2rem; }
.article-head__title { font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: var(--step-5); line-height: 1; letter-spacing: -.01em; }
.article-head__subtitle { margin-top: 1rem; font-size: var(--step-1); color: var(--ink-2); line-height: 1.45; }
.article-head__meta { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .4rem 1.5rem; margin-top: 1.75rem; padding-top: 1rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); font-size: .86rem; color: var(--muted); }
.article-cover { margin: 0 auto 3rem; max-width: 96rem; }
.article-cover .picture { aspect-ratio: 21 / 10; overflow: hidden; }
.article-cover figcaption { font-size: .84rem; color: var(--muted); margin-top: .75rem; }
.article-cover figcaption a { color: inherit; }
.article-layout { display: grid; gap: 2.5rem; padding-bottom: 5rem; }
@media (min-width: 72rem) {
  .article-layout { grid-template-columns: 15rem minmax(0, var(--measure)) 1fr; gap: 4rem; }
  .article-layout > .article-body:first-child { grid-column: 2; }
  .toc { position: sticky; top: calc(var(--header-h) + 2rem); align-self: start; }
}
.article-body { max-width: var(--measure); margin-inline: auto; width: 100%; }
@media (min-width: 72rem) { .article-body { margin: 0; } }
.toc { font-size: .88rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--line-strong); padding-top: 1rem; }
.toc__title { font-family: var(--font-text); font-size: .76rem; letter-spacing: .12em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--larch); margin-bottom: .75rem; font-weight: 600; }
.toc ol { list-style: none; display: grid; gap: .5rem; counter-reset: toc; }
.toc li { counter-increment: toc; display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1.6rem 1fr; }
.toc li::before { content: counter(toc, decimal-leading-zero); color: var(--muted); font-size: .78rem; padding-top: .1rem; }
.toc a { color: var(--ink-2); text-decoration: none; }
.toc a:hover, .toc a.is-current { color: var(--baikal); text-decoration: underline; }
.article-foot { margin-top: 3rem; padding-top: 1.5rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.share { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; gap: .5rem 1.25rem; font-size: .9rem; }
.share__label { color: var(--muted); }

/* ---------- archive ---------- */
.archive { padding-bottom: 6rem; }
.archive__bar { display: grid; gap: 1.25rem; border-block: 1px solid var(--line-strong); padding: 1rem 0; margin-bottom: 3rem; }
@media (min-width: 64rem) { .archive__bar { grid-template-columns: 1fr minmax(18rem, 24rem); align-items: center; } }
.category-nav ul { list-style: none; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .4rem; }
.category-nav__link { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: .4rem; padding: .4rem .85rem; border-radius: 999px; color: var(--ink-2); text-decoration: none; font-size: .9rem; border: 1px solid transparent; }
.category-nav__link:hover { border-color: var(--line-strong); }
.category-nav__link.is-active { background: var(--ink); color: var(--paper); }
.category-nav__count { font-size: .75rem; color: var(--muted); }
.category-nav__link.is-active .category-nav__count { color: inherit; }
.archive__search { display: flex; gap: .5rem; }
.archive__featured { margin-bottom: 4rem; padding-bottom: 4rem; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
@media (min-width: 64rem) {
  .archive__featured .article-card--lead { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 7fr 5fr; gap: 3rem; align-items: end; }
  .archive__featured .article-card__media { margin: 0; }
}

/* ---------- destinations ---------- */
.dest-list { list-style: none; display: grid; gap: clamp(3rem, 7vw, 6rem); padding-bottom: 6rem; }
.dest-row { display: grid; gap: 1.5rem; align-items: center; }
.dest-row__media { display: block; aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; overflow: hidden; background: var(--sand); }
.dest-row__media .picture { height: 100%; }
.dest-row__num { font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: var(--step-2); color: var(--larch); margin: 0 0 .5rem; }
.dest-row__name { font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: var(--step-4); line-height: 1; }
.dest-row__name a { color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; }
.dest-row__name a:hover { color: var(--baikal-2); }
.dest-row__tagline { margin: .75rem 0 0; font-size: var(--step-1); color: var(--baikal-2); font-family: var(--font-display); font-style: italic; }
.dest-row__intro { margin: 1rem 0; color: var(--ink-2); max-width: 36rem; }
.dest-row__meta { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .4rem 1.25rem; font-size: .85rem; color: var(--muted); margin-bottom: 1.25rem; }
@media (min-width: 56rem) {
  .dest-row { grid-template-columns: 7fr 5fr; gap: 4rem; }
  .dest-row--flip .dest-row__media { order: 2; }
}
.guide-layout { display: grid; gap: 2.5rem; padding-block: 3rem 4rem; }
@media (min-width: 64rem) {
  .guide-layout { grid-template-columns: 15rem minmax(0, 46rem); gap: 4rem; }
  .guide-nav { position: sticky; top: calc(var(--header-h) + 2rem); align-self: start; }
}
.guide-nav { font-size: .9rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--line-strong); padding-top: 1rem; }
.guide-nav__title { font-family: var(--font-text); font-size: .76rem; letter-spacing: .12em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--larch); margin-bottom: .75rem; font-weight: 600; }
.guide-nav ol { list-style: none; display: grid; gap: .5rem; }
.guide-nav a { color: var(--ink-2); text-decoration: none; }
.guide-nav a:hover { color: var(--baikal); text-decoration: underline; }
.guide-section { padding-top: 2.5rem; margin-top: 2.5rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); scroll-margin-top: calc(var(--header-h) + 1rem); }
.guide-section__title { font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: var(--step-3); margin-bottom: 1.25rem; }
.guide-section--risks { background: #f3ece0; padding: 2rem 1.75rem; border-top: 0; }
.dest-map { height: 22rem; margin-top: 2rem; border: 1px solid var(--line-strong); background: #dfe7e6; }
.dest-chips { list-style: none; display: grid; gap: .75rem; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(min(100%, 16rem), 1fr)); }
.dest-chips a { display: grid; gap: .2rem; padding: 1rem 1.2rem; border: 1px solid var(--line-strong); text-decoration: none; color: var(--ink); background: var(--paper); }
.dest-chips a span { font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: var(--step-1); }
.dest-chips a small { color: var(--muted); }
.dest-chips a:hover { border-color: var(--baikal); }

/* ---------- pagination ---------- */
.pagination { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; justify-content: space-between; align-items: center; gap: 1rem; margin-top: 3.5rem; padding-top: 1.5rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); font-size: .92rem; }
.pagination__pages { list-style: none; display: flex; gap: .25rem; }
.pagination__pages a, .pagination__pages span { display: grid; place-items: center; min-width: 2.5rem; height: 2.5rem; padding: 0 .5rem; text-decoration: none; color: var(--ink-2); border-radius: var(--radius); }
.pagination__pages a:hover { background: var(--paper); color: var(--baikal); }
.pagination__pages [aria-current="page"] { background: var(--ink); color: var(--paper); }
.pagination__step { text-decoration: none; }
.pagination__step.is-disabled { color: var(--muted); }
.pagination__gap { padding: 0 .4rem; color: var(--muted); align-self: center; }

/* ---------- static / error ---------- */
.static-page .article-layout { padding-top: 1rem; }
.error-page { padding-block: 4rem 6rem; }
.error-page__code { font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: clamp(5rem, 18vw, 12rem); line-height: .85; color: #958769; margin: 0 0 1rem; }
.error-page__actions { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 1rem; margin: 2rem 0 3rem; }

/* ---------- footer ---------- */
/* Banner / announcement blocks from custom/*.php — centred; images never overflow on phones. */
.custom-block { max-width: var(--max); margin: 0 auto; padding: 1rem var(--gutter); text-align: center; overflow-wrap: anywhere; }
.custom-block:empty { display: none; }
.custom-block img, .custom-block iframe, .custom-block video { display: inline-block; vertical-align: middle; max-width: 100%; height: auto; }
.custom-block--article { padding-block: 1.5rem 1rem; }
.link-exchange { max-width: var(--max); margin: 0 auto; padding: 1.5rem var(--gutter); text-align: center; font-size: .85rem; color: var(--ink-2); overflow-wrap: anywhere; }
.link-exchange:empty { display: none; }   /* e.g. only an HTML comment (exchange check code) */
.link-exchange a { color: inherit; }
.site-footer { background: var(--ink); color: rgba(251, 248, 242, .78); margin-top: auto; }
.site-footer__inner { max-width: var(--max); margin: 0 auto; padding: clamp(3.5rem, 7vw, 6rem) var(--gutter) 3rem; display: grid; gap: 3rem; }
@media (min-width: 56rem) { .site-footer__inner { grid-template-columns: 6fr 3fr 3fr; } }
.site-footer__wordmark { font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: clamp(2.6rem, 6vw, 4.8rem); line-height: .95; color: var(--paper); margin: 0 0 1rem; }
.site-footer__tagline { font-size: var(--step-1); color: rgba(251, 248, 242, .85); max-width: 26rem; }
.site-footer__note { font-size: .9rem; max-width: 30rem; }
.site-footer__coords { margin-top: 2rem; font-size: .72rem; letter-spacing: .14em; color: #9a9a98; }
.site-footer__heading { font-family: var(--font-text); font-size: .74rem; letter-spacing: .16em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--larch-light); margin-bottom: 1.1rem; font-weight: 600; }
.site-footer__col ul { list-style: none; display: grid; gap: .65rem; }
.site-footer a { color: rgba(251, 248, 242, .88); text-decoration: none; }
.site-footer a:hover { color: #fff; text-decoration: underline; }
.site-footer__legal { max-width: var(--max); margin: 0 auto; padding: 1.5rem var(--gutter) 2rem; border-top: 1px solid rgba(251, 248, 242, .12); font-size: .78rem; color: rgba(251, 248, 242, .55); display: grid; gap: .4rem; }
.site-footer__legal p { margin: 0; }
/* Links inside running text must not rely on colour alone. */
.site-footer__legal a { text-decoration: underline; text-decoration-color: rgba(251, 248, 242, .35); text-underline-offset: .18em; }
.site-footer__legal a:hover { text-decoration-color: currentColor; }

/* ---------- Leaflet skin ---------- */
.leaflet-container { font: inherit; background: #dfe7e6; }
.leaflet-container a { color: var(--baikal-2); }
.leaflet-bar a, .leaflet-bar a:hover { color: var(--ink); }
.leaflet-popup-content-wrapper { border-radius: var(--radius); box-shadow: var(--shadow); }
.leaflet-popup-content { margin: .9rem 1rem; font-size: .9rem; line-height: 1.45; }
.leaflet-popup-content strong { display: block; font-family: var(--font-display); font-size: 1.2rem; font-weight: 600; margin-bottom: .2rem; }
.map-pin { display: grid; place-items: center; width: 34px; height: 34px; border-radius: 50%; background: var(--baikal); color: var(--paper); border: 2px solid var(--paper); box-shadow: 0 2px 6px rgba(0, 0, 0, .35); font: 600 15px/1 var(--font-text); transition: transform .25s var(--ease), background-color .25s; }
.map-pin.is-approx { background: var(--paper); color: var(--baikal); border: 2px dashed var(--baikal); }
.map-pin.is-active { background: var(--larch); color: #fff; transform: scale(1.22); }
.map-dot { display: block; width: 16px; height: 16px; border-radius: 50%; border: 2px solid #fff; box-shadow: 0 1px 4px rgba(0, 0, 0, .4); }
.map-dot--city { background: var(--larch-light); }
.map-dot--regional { background: var(--baikal-3); }
.map-dot--dest { background: var(--paper); border-color: var(--ink); border-radius: 2px; transform: rotate(45deg); width: 13px; height: 13px; }
.route-line { stroke-linecap: round; stroke-linejoin: round; }
.route-line.is-drawing { transition: stroke-dashoffset 2.6s cubic-bezier(.45, .05, .25, 1); }

/* ---------- scroll reveal (only for below-the-fold content, JS-enabled, motion allowed) ---------- */
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) {
  .reveal-pending { opacity: 0; transform: translateY(18px); }
  .reveal-in { opacity: 1; transform: none; transition: opacity .8s var(--ease), transform .8s var(--ease); }
}